Day 23: Zabaikalsk to Chita

Today we really followed in the footsteps of George Schuster!

We arrived in Chita this evening, although we didn’t get to claim a $1,000 prize as the German Protos did for being the first 1908 racer to reach Chita from Vladivostok on June 16. The prize was awarded by the Trans-Siberian Railway — click here for the full New York Times article.

We left Zabaikalsk about 9 a.m., anticipating a 3 p.m. arrival in Chita, but everything from construction to a flat tire to low fuel got in our way. I think our new guide, Ksenia (I spelled her name wrong yesterday) is probably already wondering what she has gotten into.

After about 45 minutes of driving this morning, we encountered construction and bumpy gravel and dirt roads that made for wild rides and slow progress. At one point, John said he saw the back tires of the Envoy fly several inches off the ground as we bounced across a pothole.

On the other hand, the leisurely pace gave us time to enjoy views of the Trans-Siberian Railway and traditional houses in this region — unfinished except for blue, white, or green trim — that are similar to what the original racers would have seen.

 

Trans-Siberian Railway on the drive to Chita

Trans-Siberian Railway on the drive to Chita (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

Typical house in the Biryat region, similar to what the original racers may have seen

Typical house in the Biryat region, similar to what the original racers may have seen (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

We stopped for gas at a station with old time pumps, which fit right in with John’s vintage Plymouth Roadster. Note that the pump is in liters, not gallons.

 

Old time gas pump meets old time car

Old time gas pump meets old time car (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

About 1:30, Luke called on the walkie-talkie and said the Roadster had a flat tire, so Leo turned the Envoy around and we headed back to watch the tire-changing show and provide unhelpful advice.

 

The flat tire -- first one of the trip!

The flat tire — first one of the trip! (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

John and Luke change the tire

John and Luke change the tire (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

While John and Luke changed the tire, the rest of us took in the scenery and basked in the 85 degree heat.

 

Roadside scenery -- if you have to break down, might as well do it here!

Roadside scenery — if you have to break down, might as well do it here! (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

The Roadster now had no spare tire, so Luke pointed out we would need to fix it. John said, “We’ll take it somewhere to have that done,” and Luke replied, “You wimp, Schuster wouldn’t have done that!” Actually, he used a different word than wimp, but I’ll leave that to your imagination.

After a traditional Russian lunch at 2 p.m. from a roadside cafe,

Lunch!

Lunch! (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

and petting a local dog,

 

Cute Russian dog

Cute Russian dog (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

the road conditions improved and we picked up the pace, except for a brief roadside refueling for the Roadster — the gas stations in Siberia are few and far between.

Just before arriving in Chita, we stopped in the small town of Alamanovka to see if we could get the tire fixed. Ksenia found a shop on her second try, and four of us crowded inside the tiny building below to watch the repair.

 

Tire repair shop in Alamanovka

Tire repair shop in Alamanovka (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

If tire repair ever becomes an Olympic sport, the mechanic below is a sure bet to wing the gold medal! From tire into the shop to tire back out of the shop took about seven minutes, and he only charged 100 rubles, about $3. If you’re ever in Aamanovka, be sure to stop by and give these guys some business!

 

Olympic gold medalist in tire repair

Olympic gold medalist in tire repair (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

We arrived at our hotel about 6 p.m., not bad, all things considered. Tomorrow morning, we leave Chita about 8 a.m. to drive 590 km to Ulan Ude, where we’ll have a day of rest (and I hope laundry) on Monday.

Day 21: Manzhouli, China

Today we had a free day in Manzhouli to ensure our customs papework is all in order before we cross back into Russia tomorrow. So far, everything looks like it is going well, but we’ve learned not to make any assumptions, especially when dealing with customs in any country on Fridays!

We started this morning with a trip to the Zhalainuoer Museum, which opened in 2012 and depicts the natural and cultural history of the Zhalainuoer region, including a simulated mine. In addition to displays of mammoth skeletons, arrow heads, pots, and other cultural artifacts, the museum had many life-like dioramas such as the one below.

Museum diorama of Mongolian history

Museum diorama of Mongolian history (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

Here’s a picture of Sim explaining the display on the Trans-Siberian Railway that the original racers followed through Manzhouli.

 

Trans-Siberian Railway display

Trans-Siberian Railway display (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

In the exhibit hall on coal mining, we found a gas can from the 1940s that looks a lot like the extra cans John carries on the 1928 Roadster:

 

John's gas can?

John’s gas can? (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

The simulated coal mine is huge — it took us about ten minutes to walk through the entire display. The realism extended to the darkness, so I didn’t get many good pictures, but here’s one of a conveyor belt:

 

Conveyer belt in simulated mine

Conveyer belt in simulated mine (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

After the museum, we drove a short distance to a Mammoth Park. Even though it’s still under construction, they were letting people in, so we strolled among the dozens of life-like mammoth statues that gave us a feel for what a whole herd must have looked like on the steppe. I’m pretty sure the original 1908 racers didn’t see any of these!

 

Mammoth Park

Mammoth Park (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

After we returned from our tour, Leo’s car got a bath at a local car wash, and then we all had noodle soup for lunch.

 

The Envoy gets a bath

The Envoy gets a bath (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

During lunch, one of the restaurant owners where we dined was making Jhint, a kind of rice dumpling. The process involves a bamboo leaf, a special type of rice that has been soaking for a long time, and a date, as shown in the first photo below. The other photos show her filling a folded leaf with rice, which she then ties with a string from those draped over the chair in front of her. The result is shown in the last photo. The pouches are then steamed for several hours and cooled for a day before they are ready to eat.

 

Ingredients for Jhint -- bamboo leaf, date, rice

Ingredients for Jhint — bamboo leaf, date, rice (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

Filling the pouch with rice; notice the string draped on the chair

Filling the pouch with rice; notice the string draped on the chair (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

Finished pouches, ready for steaming

Finished pouches, ready for steaming (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

After lunch, we went in search of fresh fruit for Luke,

 

Fruit vendor; note that Luke is eating ice cream in preparation for his fruit

Fruit vendor; note that Luke is eating ice cream in preparation for his fruit (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

a bicycle pump for John so he could pump up the struts on the Roadster,

 

John in search of a bicycle pump

John in search of a bicycle pump (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

and fuses for the brake lights. We figure if we blow a fuse every ten days, the current cache should get us to Paris. If it doesn’t, we’re going to replace Luke as our mechanic — any volunteers?

 

John in search of fuses

John in search of fuses (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

The precious fuses -- this should get us to Paris!

The precious fuses — this should get us to Paris! (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

After we returned to the hotel, Sim signed the Roadster,

 

Sim signing the Roadster

Sim signing the Roadster (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

while Luke pumped up the struts. The bicycle pump worked great — the struts are now at 80 psi; I hope I don’t see the Roadster bouncing three feet in the air tomorrow as we head across the border!

 

Luke pumping up the struts to 80 psi

Luke pumping up the struts to 80 psi (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

Sim’s signature now joins the signatures of Hiro, our Japanese guide; Svetlana, our first Russian guide; and Igor, the Russian truck driver for the Roadster. Sim’s signature in the picture below says we started in Sifuenhe, came to Manzhouli, and are departing on May 30 (tomorrow).

Sim's signature

Sim’s signature (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

Tomorrow we cross the border into Russia and will be staying in Zabaikalsk tomorrow evening. I’m not sure of our connectivity for tomorrow; it may be Saturday evening in Chita before we have Wifi again.

Day 20: Yakeshi to Manzhouli

After a nice sunset last night, we left Yakeshi this morning about 9 a.m. to drive to Manzhouli, which is on the border with Russia.

 

Yakeshi sunset last night

Yakeshi sunset last night (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

After about 60 miles, the G10 expressway we’ve been following since Suifenhe came to an end — we thought it would take us all the way to Manzhouli. But not to worry — we continued on the G301, which turned out to be an excellent four lane national highway, although we did have to slow down a few times for cows crossing the road.

 

Some of the many cows we saw on the drive today

Some of the many cows we saw on the drive today (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

We saw many horses and sheep as well, including this herd of horses that raced to a nearby river, where they plowed right into the water and started playing and drinking.

 

Horses racing to a river

Horses racing to a river (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

The forests from yesterday disappeared and the terrain became smaller rolling hills — we’re now traveling on what’s known as the steppe. The weather was nice again today, but very windy. It reminded me of the winds in the deserts of the southwest U.S. — I even saw a couple of tumbleweeds go dancing down the road, and one got squashed by a car in front of me.

I could see the railroad track running parallel to us for many miles today, so I’m sure the original racers saw some of the same scenes as us. However, they would have missed the giant wind turbines perched on the surrounding hillsides. What they saw was probably something close to the picture below:

 

Typical steppe scene

Typical steppe scene (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

We saw many yurts, the tent-like structures that Mongolians use for everything from houses to restaurants. We stopped at a resort that had large yurt for the reception area and restaurant and smaller yurts for the rooms. The large yurt had a main room filled with stuffed animals.

 

Main yurt at resort area

Main yurt at resort area (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

Yurt hotel rooms at Mongolian resort

Yurt hotel rooms at Mongolian resort (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

Some of the animals on display in the main yurt

Some of the animals on display in the main yurt (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

We arrived in Manzhouli about 1:30, having made only one short stop at a closed gas station for a Roadster refueling from the side tanks. The wind was blowing so hard, it rocked the Envoy as we sat there.

Tomorrow: A short tour of Manzhouli and then ensuring our customs paperwork is in order for the Friday border crossing back into Russia.