Day 41: Yekaterinburg to Perm

Number of tie wraps: 24 (holding steady)

Countdown: 5284 miles down, 3301 to go

It’s midnight in Perm, where we’re at the same latitude as Juneau, Alaska, and although it’s dark enough for lights to be on, the sun hasn’t fully set.

It was nearly 9 p.m. when we rolled up to the hotel after the drive from Yekaterinburg. John wasn’t able to complete his visa paperwork yesterday in Yekaterinburg, so he had to go back to the immigration office this morning. It looked like he would have the replacement visa in about an hour, but then the paperwork hit a snag, so we headed out about 2:30 without the visa.

The drive up was on excellent roads, save for a few construction delays, and we saw lots of farmers fields and forests as we passed through the Urals.

Farm field on the drive from Yekaterinburg to Perm

Farm field on the drive from Yekaterinburg to Perm (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

John and Natalia, our new guide, will walk to the immigration office in Perm first thing tomorrow morning. If all goes well, we’ll be on the road by around noon to drive 278 km to Izhevsk. If things don’t work out for John, well, stay tuned!

Days 39-40: Tyumen to Yekaterinburg

Number of tie wraps: 24 (one added since last blog post)

Countdown: 5061 miles down, 3524 to go

Quote of the day: “Are you the one with the car?” (Security guard at the Russian Consulate to John when he arrived for his new passport)

During the drive to Yekaterinburg yesterday, the terrain changed to rolling hills with a mix of birch and fir trees as we came closer to the Ural Mountain Range. By most standards, the Urals aren’t much in the way of mountains; at the north end near the Kara Sea, the peaks rise to about 6,000 feet, but down south where we are, the highest elevation is about 1,200 feet. However, despite their short stature, the Urals are recognized as the dividing line between Europe and Asia.

 

Rolling hills as we approach the Urals

Rolling hills as we approach the Urals (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

The roads were good yesterday and, with only a few delays for construction and a short roadside pause for some police who wanted to take a picture of the Roadster, we arrived at our hotel in Yekaterinburg about 2 p.m. John and Ksenia left immediately for the U.S. Consulate and, six hours later, they returned with John’s replacement passport (good for one year). Yesterday evening, we also met our new guide, Natalia, who will accompany us from here to the Russian border, and our dinner became a combination hail to Natalia, farewell to Ksenia, and celebration over John’s new passport. This morning, Ksenia signed both cars and then John and Natalia disappeared to Russian Immigration to try to replace John’s visa while the rest of us went on a tour.

 

Ksenia signing Leo's Envoy

Ksenia signing Leo’s Envoy (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

Our tour today focused on some of the more grim aspects of the Russian Revolution and the days of Stalin. We first headed to the Political Repression Memorial, which is built on the mass gravesite of about 18,000 people who died in gulags between 1930 and 1950. The memorial is a series of walls engraved with the names of those known to have perished. I counted 46 walls of people.

 

The Political Repression Memorial outside Yekaterinburg

The Political Repression Memorial outside Yekaterinburg (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

We next visited the site which marks the Europe-Asia dividing line in the Urals. In 1908, when George Schuster passed by here, he etched his initials in the original monument built at the line in 1837. That monument was destroyed by the Soviets, but a boulder has been erected where it used to be.

 

Site of monument where George Schuster engraved his initials in 1908

Site of monument where George Schuster engraved his initials in 1908 (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

The new monument was built just a few years ago, and you can see Asia on one side and Europe on the other.

 

Current monument designating the dividing line between Europe and Asia

Current monument designating the dividing line between Europe and Asia (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

We also visited the remnants of the original monument, which has been restored and moved to a new location that we reached after a short hike through some woods. Alas, no George Schuster initials could be seen anywhere, but everyone had a chance to stand by the original memorial with one foot in Europe and one foot in Asia.

 

Luke with one foot in Europe and one foot in Asia by the remnants of the monument George Schuster engraved

Luke with one foot in Europe and one foot in Asia by the remnants of the monument George Schuster engraved (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

Our final stop on the tour was the Church-on-the-Blood, a modern church built on the site where Tsar Nicholas II and his family were murdered on July 17, 1918. The seven family members (the Tsar, his wife, four daughters and one son) have been canonized as martyrs by the Russian Orthodox Church.

 

Church-on-the-Blood, murder site of Tsar Nicholas II and his family in 1918

Church-on-the-Blood, murder site of Tsar Nicholas II and his family in 1918 (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

Romanov family canonized as martyrs by the Russian Orthodox Church

Romanov family canonized as martyrs by the Russian Orthodox Church (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

For those who are keeping track of the tie wraps, John added another one on Monday to keep the turn signal flasher unit attached to the steering wheel.

 

New tie wrap on signal flasher unit

New tie wrap on signal flasher unit (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

Tomorrow (Wednesday), we drive to Perm, 258 km.

Day 38: Ishim to Tyumen

Number of tie wraps: 23 (holding steady)

Countdown: 4859 miles down, 3726 to go

It took us about 5.5 hours to drive to Tyumen today, but we spent almost an hour of that just trying to get out of Ishim. We tried to reverse the route we took into town yesterday, but missed a turn and, after winding up in an alleyway, got directions that sent us back to our hotel again. From there, we still took a wrong turn, but managed to head out of town on a different road than the one we arrived on. However, the road we were on wasn’t the main highway, and we soon found ourselves battling rough roads in a construction area. The convoy of cars we were in scattered all over the road, using the left lane, the middle of the road, the right lane, and the right shoulder, and sometimes coming to a complete stop to allow oncoming traffic to go by.

 

Off-roading it between Ishim and Tyumen

Off-roading it between Ishim and Tyumen (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

After about an hour or so, we made it back to the main highway, but the road conditions didn’t improve much and when we stopped for gas at about noon, we had only managed to go about 90 miles in three hours.

 

The main highway to Tyumen, about half way from Ishim to Tyumen

The main highway to Tyumen, about half way from Ishim to Tyumen (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

But from that point, the roads improved and we made it to our very nice hotel in Tyumen by 2:30.

Tyumen, founded in the 16th century, is the oldest city in Siberia, but as a center for the Russian petroleum industry, it is also very modern, as can be seen from the picture below of the square that was built to celebrate the city’s 400th anniversary.

 

Square built in Tyumen to celebrate its 400th anniversary

Square built in Tyumen to celebrate its 400th anniversary (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

Tonight will be our last night in Siberia and Asia. Tomorrow we will drive 326 km to Yekaterinburg, located at the edge of the eastern part of the Ural mountain range, which divides Europe and Asia. Yekaterinburg is also where John will be able to get a new passport and visa!