Day 44: Kazan to Nizhny Novgorod

Number of tie wraps: 29 (holding steady)

Countdown: 5971 miles down, 2614 to go

Quote of the day: “I’m shocked that there is a jam on a federal road between two cities.” Natalia, our guide, after we had been at a dead stop for 30 minutes in a construction zone during our drive today.

The roads today were good overall, but it took us 8 hours to drive 240 miles, mostly due to construction delays on the M7 road between Kazan and Nizhny Novgorod. We had some nice views of the Volga River (called the Nile of Russia) on our way out of town. The photo below is looking to the north, but looking to the south, I saw the skyline of Kazan and it reminded me of the view of Washington DC from the Woodrow Wilson Bridge across the Potomac River.

The Volga River

The Volga River (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

Kazan is in the Tatarstan region of Russia, so for dinner last night, I tired a traditional Tatar dish, a delicious appetizer that was similar to a potato pancake. We also viewed a gorgeous sunset from our dinner table.

Sunset last night in Kazan

Sunset last night in Kazan (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

This morning, we set out at 9 a.m. for a Kazan city tour. First, we headed to the Kazan Kremlin, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, where we saw a mosque that was rebuilt in 2005 — the original mosque had been destroyed during the Soviet era.

Kul Sharif Mosque at Kazan Kremlin

Kul Sharif Mosque at Kazan Kremlin (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

We also saw this leaning tower in the Kremlin — Syuyumbike Tower. it’s not as famous as the Leaning Tower of Pisa, but it leans almost as much.

Leaning Syuyumbike Tower of Kazan

Leaning Syuyumbike Tower of Kazan (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

Since kremlin means fortress, you might expect that it would provide a nice view of the city, and it didn’t disappoint. I hope the panorama from my iPhone does it some justice.

Panoramic view of Kazan from the Kremlin

Panoramic view of Kazan from the Kremlin (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

At one time, Kazan was divided into a Tatar section and a Russian section, but these days Russians and Tatars mix freely. The house below is in the old Tatar section and is typical of Tatar architecture — notice that the whole house is painted, not just the shutters like many traditional Russian houses.

Traditional Tatar architecture

Traditional Tatar architecture (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

After driving the last two hours this evening through rain, we arrived at our hotel in Nizhny Novgorod about 9:15 p.m., where we were greeted by the hotel kitty cat.

Azimut Hotel kitty

Azimut Hotel kitty (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

 

The hotel is located at the top of a hill overlooking the city, and if the weather is good tomorrow morning, we should have some nice Nizhny views before we leave for Moscow, about a 418 km drive. One last thing — there won’t be any new Roadster shocks waiting for us when we arrive in Moscow tomorrow — the latest plan failed as well. With the better roads we have now, replacing the shocks isn’t as important as it was, but Luke still has some ideas, so stay tuned!

Days 42-43: Perm to Izhevsk to Kazan

Number of tie wraps: 29 (5 since last blog post)

Countdown: 5726 miles down, 2859 to go

Quote of the day: “Welcome to Russia!” (Izhevsk policeman to Luke and John yesterday)

In 1908, George Schuster and the Thomas Flyer had a much tougher time getting from Perm to Kazan than we did. The Flyer had stripped two gears just outside Omsk, quite a ways back, but a field repair kept them going until just outside of Perm, where the transmission gave up altogether as Schuster tried to extricate the Thomas from a gigantic pothole.

Schuster had ordered a spare transmission be shipped to Russia from the U.S. while he was in Harbin, China, because he was worried about the transmission even then. The transmission had arrived in Russia within two weeks, but no one seemed to know at which train station it had been off-loaded. Fortunately, just when the Thomas really needed the new transmission, it was located in Kazan, several hundred miles from the breakdown point, so Schuster took a wagon to retrieve it.

After repairing the Flyer, the U.S. team took a wrong turn and wound up in Viatka (modern day Kirov) several hundred kilometers out of their way before finally arriving in Kazan. Between the repair and getting lost, they were once again well behind the German Protos. The New York Times reported much confusion on the whereabouts and intentions of the U.S. team during their side trip to Viatka — click here for one article written during this period.

We had a little time in Perm yesterday morning while John and Natalia went to immigration one more time to try unsuccessfully to resolve John’s visa. Luke and I walked down a path that paralleled the Kama River and the Siberian Railway and we found a scary-looking but perfectly safe underpass that we took underneath the railway to a footpath right by the river.

 

Steps leading to tunnel under the Siberian Railway

Steps leading to tunnel under the Siberian Railway (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

Later that day, we crossed the Kama River on the bridge below as we drove out of Perm. Schuster and the Flyer crossed the Kama by ferry, since there was no bridge available in 1908.

 

Bridge across the Kama River in Perm

Bridge across the Kama River in Perm (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

Before we left Perm, Luke washed the headlights on the Roadster and removed a rather large deceased insect from the headlight grills (those of you who are Air Force fighter pilots will know why I used the term “deceased insect” — I don’t want any of you getting hurt from hurling your body to the floor).

 

Hitchhiker found on Roadster headlight

Hitchhiker found on Roadster headlight (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

Roadster headlights before cleaning

Roadster headlights before cleaning (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

Roadster headlights after cleaning

Roadster headlights after cleaning (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

On the drive to Izhevsk yesterday and to Kazan today, we saw many brightly painted roadside shelters for picnic tables, such as the one below. They seemed to come in all shapes and colors, and were located along the road every kilometer or so.

 

Colorful roadside shelter

Colorful roadside shelter (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

As we were heading to the hotel in Izhevsk, the police waved the Roadster over for a look. They were mostly just curious about the car and the paperwork, and one of them came over to the hotel later and signed the car.

 

Message from police in Izhevsk wishing us luck on our journey

Message from police in Izhevsk wishing us luck on our journey (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

Today, we had great roads most of the way from Izhevsk to Kazan, so we made good time. During our final gas stop, the young man in the picture below admired the car and I couldn’t get the Bluetooth on my iPhone to send the picture to his phone, so I told him I’d post the picture on the website instead.

 

An admirer about 100km outside Kazan

An admirer about 100km outside Kazan (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

John also added another tie wrap to the turn signal flasher unit at the gas stop.

 

Yes, another tie wrap!

Yes, another tie wrap! (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

As we neared Kazan, many of the road signs became tri-lingual — Tatar, the native language here, as well as Russian and English.

 

Tri-lingual road sign -- Tatar, Russian and English

Tri-lingual road sign — Tatar, Russian and English (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

Kazan is a beautiful city with a blend of modern structures and traditional architecture. We’ll be taking a tour of the city tomorrow morning, so I’ll post some pictures then.

After we arrived at the hotel, John decided to double-up the tie wraps on the radiator grill, so that added four more tie wraps to the total.

 

And even more tie wraps!

And even more tie wraps! (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

Tomorrow, after our city tour, we head to Nizhny Novgorod, 395 km. We’ll be arriving in Moscow on Sunday now so we have an extra day to sort out John’s visa.

Days 39-40: Tyumen to Yekaterinburg

Number of tie wraps: 24 (one added since last blog post)

Countdown: 5061 miles down, 3524 to go

Quote of the day: “Are you the one with the car?” (Security guard at the Russian Consulate to John when he arrived for his new passport)

During the drive to Yekaterinburg yesterday, the terrain changed to rolling hills with a mix of birch and fir trees as we came closer to the Ural Mountain Range. By most standards, the Urals aren’t much in the way of mountains; at the north end near the Kara Sea, the peaks rise to about 6,000 feet, but down south where we are, the highest elevation is about 1,200 feet. However, despite their short stature, the Urals are recognized as the dividing line between Europe and Asia.

 

Rolling hills as we approach the Urals

Rolling hills as we approach the Urals (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

The roads were good yesterday and, with only a few delays for construction and a short roadside pause for some police who wanted to take a picture of the Roadster, we arrived at our hotel in Yekaterinburg about 2 p.m. John and Ksenia left immediately for the U.S. Consulate and, six hours later, they returned with John’s replacement passport (good for one year). Yesterday evening, we also met our new guide, Natalia, who will accompany us from here to the Russian border, and our dinner became a combination hail to Natalia, farewell to Ksenia, and celebration over John’s new passport. This morning, Ksenia signed both cars and then John and Natalia disappeared to Russian Immigration to try to replace John’s visa while the rest of us went on a tour.

 

Ksenia signing Leo's Envoy

Ksenia signing Leo’s Envoy (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

Our tour today focused on some of the more grim aspects of the Russian Revolution and the days of Stalin. We first headed to the Political Repression Memorial, which is built on the mass gravesite of about 18,000 people who died in gulags between 1930 and 1950. The memorial is a series of walls engraved with the names of those known to have perished. I counted 46 walls of people.

 

The Political Repression Memorial outside Yekaterinburg

The Political Repression Memorial outside Yekaterinburg (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

We next visited the site which marks the Europe-Asia dividing line in the Urals. In 1908, when George Schuster passed by here, he etched his initials in the original monument built at the line in 1837. That monument was destroyed by the Soviets, but a boulder has been erected where it used to be.

 

Site of monument where George Schuster engraved his initials in 1908

Site of monument where George Schuster engraved his initials in 1908 (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

The new monument was built just a few years ago, and you can see Asia on one side and Europe on the other.

 

Current monument designating the dividing line between Europe and Asia

Current monument designating the dividing line between Europe and Asia (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

We also visited the remnants of the original monument, which has been restored and moved to a new location that we reached after a short hike through some woods. Alas, no George Schuster initials could be seen anywhere, but everyone had a chance to stand by the original memorial with one foot in Europe and one foot in Asia.

 

Luke with one foot in Europe and one foot in Asia by the remnants of the monument George Schuster engraved

Luke with one foot in Europe and one foot in Asia by the remnants of the monument George Schuster engraved (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

Our final stop on the tour was the Church-on-the-Blood, a modern church built on the site where Tsar Nicholas II and his family were murdered on July 17, 1918. The seven family members (the Tsar, his wife, four daughters and one son) have been canonized as martyrs by the Russian Orthodox Church.

 

Church-on-the-Blood, murder site of Tsar Nicholas II and his family in 1918

Church-on-the-Blood, murder site of Tsar Nicholas II and his family in 1918 (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

Romanov family canonized as martyrs by the Russian Orthodox Church

Romanov family canonized as martyrs by the Russian Orthodox Church (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

For those who are keeping track of the tie wraps, John added another one on Monday to keep the turn signal flasher unit attached to the steering wheel.

 

New tie wrap on signal flasher unit

New tie wrap on signal flasher unit (Eileen Bjorkman photo)

Tomorrow (Wednesday), we drive to Perm, 258 km.